peak Communism
Peak Communism (now Peak Ismail Samoni)
Peak Communism (7495 m) is situated on the joint of the Academiya Nauk Range and Peter Pervy Range, North West Pamirs. The peak is the highest summit of former USSR. The peak Korjenevskoy (7105 m) the 4-th summit of the former USSR — 12 km to the North from the Peak Communism.
Three glaciers — Fortambek, Moskvin and Valter flow down the North slope of the Peak Communism. Base camp is on grass meadow — Moskvin Meadow — between Valter and Moskvin glaciers, 4100 m. Camping is in tents.
Here you have a wide choice of routes to Peak Communism, Peak Korjenevskoy and other summits of this region. One of the wonders of nature in this region is the Big Firn Plateau — the flat snow field 12x3 km on the altitude over 6000 m. The aria around Moskvin Medow is one of most beautiful mountain places of the World.
The region is very interesting for a climbing. During acclimatization you climb different mountains: peak Vorobiev, peak Chetyrekh, peak Korjenevskoy (7105 m), seeing picturesque views of great Central Pamirs mountains from different points. If somebody could not climb 7000 m summits (Communism or Korjenevskoy) because of bad weather or some other reasons he would get satisfaction having climbed not so giants, but very big mountains.
One can get to BC using two differnt sets of services: there are 2 packages: "Small" and "Full" (TOURS section)
Helicopter flights schedule
|
Destination |
Helicopter flights 2010 |
||||
|
Dushanbe (Dzhirgital) - Base Camp on Moskvin Medow |
22.07 |
25.07 |
29.07 |
|
01.08 |
|
Base Camp - Dzhirgital - Dushanbe |
17.08 |
20.08 |
26.08 |
|
27.08 |
Expedition program
There are surely a good few variants to climb peak Communism. I like very much expedition program below, but one needs to have long holiday to do it. You could use it as pattern to create Your own trip plan
|
Day |
Day’s program |
|
1 |
Arrival to Dushanbe. Accommodation in a private home/hotel |
|
2 |
Transfer from Dushanbe to Dzhirgital (Djirgital) by bus (6-8 hrs) or by plane. Night at 1800 m in a private home/tents. |
|
3 |
Helicopter flight to the BC on Moskvina glacier. |
|
4 |
Walking, preliminary acclimatization around Base Camp. |
|
5 |
Walking, preliminary acclimatization around Base Camp. |
|
6 |
Go to Peak Vorobiova (5691m) Camp 1. Night in tents at about 4900m. |
|
7 |
Ascent of Peak Vorobiova (5691m). Returning to BC. |
|
8 |
Rest in BC. |
|
9 |
Go to Peak Chetyrekh (6299m). Camp 1 at 5100m. Tents. |
|
10 |
Go to Peak Chetyrekh (6299m). Camp 2 at 6000m. Tents. |
|
11 |
Climbing Peak Chetyrekh («Chetyrekh"="of four"="of 4») and descend down to BC. |
|
12 |
Rest in BC. |
|
13 |
Rest in BC. |
|
14 |
Climbing Peak Korjenevskoy (7105m). Camp 5300m. Tents. |
|
15 |
Climbing Peak Korjenevskoy (7105m). Camp 5800m. Tents. |
|
16 |
Climbing Peak Korjenevskoy (7105m). Camp 6400m. Tents. |
|
17 |
Climbing top of Peak Korjenevskoy (7105m). Back to Camp 2, 6400m. Tents. |
|
18 |
Descend down to BC. |
|
19 |
Rest in BC. |
|
20 |
Rest in BC. |
|
21 |
Climbing Peak Communism (7495m) via normal Borodkin's route. Camp 1, 5100/5300m. Tents. |
|
22 |
Go to Big Firn Plateau. Camp 2, 6000m. Tents |
|
23 |
Climbing Peak Communism (7495m) Camp 3, 6900m. Tents. |
|
24 |
Climbing top of Peak Communism (7495m). Back to Camp 2 or 3. Tents. |
|
25 |
Returning to BC |
|
26 |
Reserve day |
|
27 |
Reserve day |
|
28 |
Reserve day |
|
30 |
Helicopter flight rom Moskvin Meadow Base Camp to Dzhirgital. Transfer to Dushanbe by bus (6-8 hrs). As option — direct helicopter flight from BC to Dushanbe |
|
31 |
Departure from Dushanbe (Of course better to have here some spare time, as helicopter flight needs good weather condition |
One can get to BC using two differnt sets of services: there are 2 packages: "Small" and "Full" (TOURS section)
Helicopter flights schedule
|
Destination |
Helicopter flights 2010 |
||||
|
Dushanbe (Dzhirgital) - Base Camp on Moskvin Medow |
22.07 |
25.07 |
29.07 |
|
01.08 |
|
Base Camp - Dzhirgital - Dushanbe |
17.08 |
20.08 |
26.08 |
|
27.08 |
Visa to Tajikistan
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